Valentino: Alessandro Michele’s Debut SS25

Is it the dawn of a new Valentino era, or a return to its roots? That’s the question many were asking as Alessandro Michele took on the role of creative director for Valentino, debuting his much-anticipated SS25 collection. And while many were expecting a transformative force like Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, I find myself a bit disappointed—not because the collection failed, but because it delivered exactly what we expected.

Michele didn’t need to dive into the Valentino archives (though he did), because his maximalist aesthetic was already a natural fit. His signature mix of baroque influences, Italian craftsmanship, and theatrical design was all there, as anticipated. The SS25 collection showcased the opulence we’ve come to associate with Michele, with pieces that embraced Italy’s rich cultural heritage. Yet, perhaps that was the problem—it was so quintessentially Michele, it left little room for surprise.

Looking back, his work certainly echoes Valentino’s iconic 1990s collections. The lush fabrics and craftsmanship of the Spring/Summer 1991 collection come to mind, as does the bolder, more daring silhouette of Spring/Summer 1998. But with Michele at the helm, the expected juxtaposition of classic elegance with modern exaggeration felt a little too safe.

Therein lies my disappointment. Michele is a visionary, no doubt, but his debut collection felt predictable. Where was the unexpected twist, the shock of the new? It was as if Michele leaned into what everyone assumed he would do, without taking risks that might push Valentino into truly new territory.

Balancing the weight of a heritage brand like Valentino with one’s own creative voice is no easy feat. Michele’s personal style is already so defined, and maybe that’s part of the challenge. Will his time at Valentino simply be an extension of the same aesthetic he’s been championing for years, or will he surprise us in the future with a new evolution? Reinvention is crucial, and while this collection was undoubtedly beautiful, it left me hoping for something more daring.

Michele’s designs push boundaries in terms of genderless fashion, and that’s something I fully support. However, I wonder if his vision has become a bit too comfortable within its own framework. The collection may have referenced Valentino’s archives, but it didn’t feel like a step forward. Instead, it seemed to rely on a formula that, while successful, lacked the excitement of something genuinely new.

For now, Michele’s debut at Valentino feels like a promise that’s yet to be fully realized. The pieces were exquisite, the craftsmanship impeccable, but I’m left waiting for him to push the boundaries of what Valentino can become under his direction. Will his next collection surprise us? I certainly hope so. For now, I’ll be watching, waiting for that unexpected moment when Michele proves that he can deliver more than what’s expected.